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THURSDAY, 24 MAY 2012
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A little pampering can guard against skin damage
A women gets a facial treatment at the Sana Spa in Hamra.
A women gets a facial treatment at the Sana Spa in Hamra.

BEIRUT: As this year’s long winter begins to draw to a close, many in Lebanon may feel their skin has suffered after months of cold, wind and rain.

And as we slowly head toward the equally long summer, and coupled with environmental factors such as smoking and pollution, widespread in this country, it is important for Lebanese to look after their skin, experts say.

Skin aging is affected by two things: genetics and environmental factors, says Mazen Kunbar, assistant professor in the dermatology department at the American University of Beirut Medical Center. While the former may be out of your control, there are various steps that can minimize the effects of the latter.

As sunlight is the most powerful of these factors, it is imperative for everybody to wear sunscreen all year round, Kunbar says.

“People think that when they are out of the sun they are safe from the light, but we also have the UV [ultraviolet] rays which we cannot see,” he explains.

“UV rays can go through glass, so if you are in the office, sitting next to the window, you’re getting UVA and UVB rays.”

This applies even on a cloudy day, he adds. “It’s very important for everybody to put sunscreen on,” Kunbar adds, and this should be minimum SPF (sun protection factor) 30.

For those working directly under the sun, sunscreen should be applied every two hours, and for those working in an office, two applications of SPF 30 each day will be sufficient.

So sunscreen is the first barrier against skin aging, but a hydrating daily moisturizer will also serve as protection from damaging external factors, as there is no direct correlation between the intake of water and the hydration of the skin, Kunbar says.

“Whenever the skin is really hydrated it can better resist environmental factors, such as pollen and dust, and anything else that might cause injury to the skin,” Kunbar explains. This includes pollution, which is very high in Lebanon. “So when the skin is more hydrated it’s more resistant to the outside weather.”

Both men and women should also use a nightly moisturizing cream, and then a couple of times a week apply a cream containing Retin-A, a vitamin A derivative, which has hugely regenerative powers, Kunbar explains. It helps stimulate the growth of collagen and so renews the appearance of your skin, he adds.

Fresh fruit and vegetables are also full of vitamins A, C and E, which have restorative properties, Kunbar says, and contain friendly antioxidants.

Maha Arayssi Rifai, one of the founders of Beesline, a Lebanese natural beauty shop based in Hamra, says that “what you put on your plate is even more important than what you put on your skin.” She recommends eating a balanced diet which includes, “fruits, vegetables, whole grain foods, seeds, nuts and legumes,” and avoiding alcohol, caffeine and cigarettes.

For those fighting acne, Rifai recommends high-fiber foods, to keep the colon clean, and eating garlic daily as it boosts the immune system. Lavender oil can also soothe inflamed pimples, she adds. “Cloves and rosemary oils are also very beneficial for treating acne as they combat acne-causing bacteria when applied locally on skin,” she adds.

Kunbar says that honey is often used in Lebanon by those with dermatitis, or an inflammation of the skin, as it has hydrating qualities and is antibacterial. Olive oil can help those with psoriasis, as it allows for better absorption of other medication.

Lebanon is rich in ingredients and products which are great for the skin, Rifai, adds. Beesline products are “based on freshly harvested plant extracts from the Lebanese mountains,” she explains.

But homemade remedies can also have powerful effects, she says. For a moisturizing facial, Rifai recommends beating together olive oil, honey and egg yolk, leaving on for 15 minutes and then rinsing off with warm water.

For immediate relief for a tired face and puffy eyes, Rifai recommends mixing together cucumber, yoghurt and oatmeal for a rejuvenating facial.

“To refresh and revitalize your face, mix kiwi with mango and labneh to smooth and stimulate the skin.”

She adds: “Tomato, parsley, potato, carrot, labneh, olive and rose water are not just for eating! Try them on your face and remove all the dullness and dark spots for a brighter spring skin.”

Smoking, widespread in Lebanon, is another environmental factor which can speed up the aging process – in addition to the many more serious health problems associated with the habit.

“Smoking can affect the skin very badly, as it generates free radicals, which are toxic,” Kunbar explains. Antioxidants within our bodies normally break down these toxic, or oxidant, materials, but “if the amount of antioxidants exceeds the amount of oxidants then the balance is out.”

These oxidants break down collagen and elastic fibers within the skin, making smokers’ skin age faster, Kunbar says.

Also, Rifai adds, “[smokers use] the lips’ muscles hundreds of times a day, which contributes to wrinkling.”

The only answer is to not smoke at all, Kunbar says, and, as even passive smoking can begin to take its toll, it’s important to sit in the nonsmoking sections of nargileh cafes and restaurants.

As the weather in Lebanon begins to improve, Kunbar advises that people should not spend much time in the sun, as it is so harmful to the skin.

One hour of exposure to sunlight each week is sufficient to maintain healthy levels of vitamin D, vital for healthy bones, but, as Kunbar explains, this can also be taken in capsule form.

Rifai recommends limiting sun exposure by always wearing sunscreen when outside, and wearing a hat and loose-fitting clothes.

And while beach season may still be some way off, Kunbar urges Lebanese to ditch the sun oil so regularly used to get extra color.

“Putting oil on the skin and exposing it to heat is basically frying your skin: It will burn. It’s like making French fries.”

Instead, stick to the shade, and wear that SPF 30 sunscreen at all times, the skin expert recommends.

A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Daily Star on February 17, 2012, on page 2.
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