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Finnish chef opens pop-down restaurant in limestone mine

  • Chef Niklas Ekblom, left, and restaurateur Timo Linnamaki preparing food at Muru Pop Down -restaurant at Tytyri mine in Lohja, Finland, Monday Sept. 10 2012. (AP Photo/Lehtikuva, Antti Aimo-Koivisto)

  • Customers enjoy dinner at Muru.

LOHJA, Finland: An award-winning chef is opening a new restaurant in Finland that turns the idea of “pop-up” eateries upside-down: it’s located 80 meters underground.

Discerning food lovers are being served salted salmon, veal tenderloin snails cooked in Pernod, and apple crumble in the “pop-down” restaurant in a limestone mine in the small town of Lohja, 60 kilometers west of Helsinki.

A four-course evening meal costs $160, including drinks and transportation down to the mine and back up.

In major cities around the world “pop-up” restaurants – temporary eateries often located in underused kitchens – are allowing young chefs with experience to experiment without risk of bankruptcy.

But Finnish chef Timo Linnamaki said the idea of preparing food down a mine was all part of being close to the earth.

‘“Pop-down’ is such a unique idea that I just had to do it,” Linnamaki said Monday, a few hours before the first guests were due to arrive. “It’s great working down here because you are totally cut off from the world, so nothing distracts from the cooking.”

Eerie blue lights cut deep shadows into the ceiling of the large, dim, underground cavern, a former smithy where drills were hammered to dig into the bowels of the earth.

The 115-year-old mine goes down to a depth of 380 meters where limestone is still mined, for the chemical industry.

Linnamaki, whose restaurant Muru – “crumb” in Finnish – won this year’s gourmet title in Finland, says the experience of working down in the gloomy depths has inspired him to search for new challenges.

“Certainly it’s the weirdest place I have cooked,” he said. “It could be difficult to find something on par.”

The 64-seat restaurant is expecting brisk business. Linnamaki said it is fully booked until the experiment ends on Sept. 29.

“We’ll be underground Monday to Saturday. On Sundays, we pop up to sleep,” he said.

 
A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Daily Star on September 12, 2012, on page 13.
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