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Wine without alcohol might seem a contradiction, but the world of wine needs innovation, and Portuguese winemaker Luis Bourbon has come up with an idea that is compelling in its simplicity.HMV's product succeeds because it actually tastes like wine. The first version appeared last year, and Bourbon has experimented with grape varieties and sugar levels to give his wine an appropriate range of flavors and textures. Adding sugar and choosing the most appropriate grape varieties made the wine more palatable.HMV produces four tiers of wine with alcohol as well as the nonalcoholic red. The next level up features the red and white Bagaboa. I did not taste these wines and cannot comment about their quality. People who appreciate New World reds will adore this blend of mostly shiraz and alicante bouschet, with a touch of touriga nacional.Bourbon told me he wanted to be different, to make wines that go beyond ordinary expectations.
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