BEIRUT: In keeping with several seasons of dark glamor, Reem Acra showed another moody collection in black, purple and gold Monday as part of New York Fashion Week.
Acra’s spring ready-to-wear was all 1970s disco, and for fall, she brought show-goers back another two decades with basic A-line skirts that fell below the knee and buttoned up cashmere cardigans reminiscent of more conservative ’50s fashion.
Spring foliage in a winter color palette crept down the shoulder of a basic knit cardigan paired with a loose knee-length skirt in winter white. That same cherry-blossom embellishment returned in a series of wrap dresses with furry collars and form-fitting shifts. The pattern had an East Asian feel when Acra embroidered it into velvet and silk overcoats with loose, open sleeves.
Models, clad in sinister hues, had a bit of the black swan about them, wearing short dresses and skirt-and-jacket sets covered in feathers.
Also drawing from decades past, Acra gave a nod to old Hollywood glam with fur shrugs, thick belts that mimicked corseted waistlines, capes and elbow-length gloves.
Acra has become a staple designer for contemporary Hollywood stars, and the second half of her show is bound to make a return on the red carpet when celebrities dress up next winter.
Among those star-ready ensembles were embellished silk evening gowns and sheaths covered in floral embroidery and black damask-pattern transparencies over pink and red silk.
In addition to pleasing her star clientele, Acra, a New York-based Lebanese designer, might be making more of an appearance in these parts. She recently told Agence France Presse that she intends to give the Middle East’s design industry a boost. And speaking of the region’s burgeoning design industry, Bahraini design label Noon by Noor also presented Monday.
Fall-winter 2015 was the fourth New York show for the sheikha pair behind Noon by Nour: Noor al-Khalifa and Haya al-Khalifa. In four seasons, the young designers have consistently imbued their collections with a bit of vintage. In past collections, the retro vibe channeled collegiate tastes circa 1950. This season, Noon by Noor drew their inspiration from grandpa with platform oxfords, square-cut wool overcoats in bold cobalt and men’s trousers.
The label’s nod to vintage menswear was broken every so often with rich velvet gowns, sheer chiffon skirts and floral beading.