ERBIL, Iraq: For most, Iraq might seem an odd place for a vacation. But that’s exactly the appeal for a handful of intrepid travelers, and the locals are looking to capitalize on this trend.
The country is still struggling with daily violence, minimal services and high unemployment. In mid-February, demonstrations in Sulaimani resulted in at least ten deaths and thus an increased security presence and the closure of nearby roads. Back in July 2009, three Americans hiking near the Iranian border were arrested and detained by Iranian authorities; two remain in custody.
Still, the relatively safe Kurdish region has become an appealing travel destination for adventurous travelers. “The thrill of going to Iraq and being an American brought me here,” said Jemil Jechen, who arrived in late February. Iraq has some of the world’s oldest archaeologial sites and some of the holiest sites in Islam, Christianity and Judaism.
A Californian who has traveled extensively throughout the Middle East, Jechan was originally going to spend two weeks in Egypt but due to a people’s revolution that caused the death of nearly 400 civilians he changed his mind. Then after reading about Northern Iraq on the internet and in travel guide books, he opted for the "safer alternative".
Despite the north’s improved safety records, most Iraqis probably still are not used to seeing sightseeing ‘westerners’. An Iraqi passenger sharing a taxi with him was baffled upon seeing his American passport. When he saw his Arab name, Jemil, he wanted to learn more, so invited him to lunch, which Jechen gladly accepted. (Jechen’s grandfather is Lebanese.)
“I like the people. They’re very friendly and helpful,” said Jechen, an employee with Delta Airlines. But he warns the fussy traveler: “I think for most people who have never been to the Middle East, this would be a culture shock.”
Indeed, there are few comforts and amenities that most tourists are accustomed to: Cash machines are scarce, few places have internet connection and the streets are largely empty at night. On the other hand, the city’s newly constructed airport is as modern and efficient as any of its ‘western’ counterparts and street vendors sell mobile phone SIM cards everywhere.
There are currently four 5-star and 33 4-star hotels, and 10 new luxury hotels under construction hotels in Iraqi Kurdistan. But the Ministry of Tourism estimates that the number of “pure foreign tourists” – that is to say those who aren’t expats already living in the region – was less than a thousand last year.
“We’re still in the beginning, but we’re ready,” says Kanaan Baha Eddin, spokesman for the Ministry of Tourism.
Indeed, some tourism entrepreneurs are already getting ready to expand beyond the Kurdish region. Azzam Alwash, founder of Nature Iraq, an environmental NGO based in Sulaimani that takes visitors on rafting and hiking trips in the Kurdish region, plans on giving tours of the marchlands in the Basra area.