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Flames glow, smoke billows and the aroma of slowly burning logs blends with the flavors of lightly charred calamari with broccoli and aioli cooked inside a handmade wood-fired oven. Like other dishes at Proper restaurant, essential ingredients for this house favorite are timber and fire. While grilling in other countries involves gas or store-bought charcoal, the Argentine way is often more primal – just wood, flames and meat.In Argentina, the precursor of this movement is Francis Mallmann. The country's most famous chef and owner of three restaurants began his career cooking French food. The wood-fueled fusion is also key at Fayer (fire in Yiddish), a restaurant that blends Argentine open-fire grilling with Jewish cuisine.
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