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Since it became the capital of modern Turkey in 1923, Ankara has been constantly judged for everything it isn't – namely Istanbul.With just two days, it is possible to take in the old and new sites that define the modern capital, such as the citadel castle and Kemal Ataturk's tomb, while still having time for a bit of shopping and a hammam visit.Behind the old city walls of the citadel simple bed and breakfasts in Ottoman-era houses decked out in period furniture can be found. Try the Angora House Hotel, where rooms in the 19th century mansion of a former MP go for around $150 a night. Once checked in, it's a short, pleasant stroll through the old city and down the hill slightly to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations just outside the citadel walls ($7.50 entrance). This collection, housed in a former storage building of the Mahmutpasa bazaar and the old Kursunlu Han (caravanserai), features artifacts brought from all over Turkey, beginning with the Paleolithic era and stretching to the early Ottoman period. While the upper floor gives an overall picture of Turkey's long and diverse history of civilization, the bottom floor focuses specifically on Ankara and its environs, with particular emphasis on its early existence as a Hittite city.
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