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Somali ‘paradise flower’ chewers savor low-price bliss

A woman and her daughter arrange branches of khat into small bundles in Mogadishu August 9, 2014. REUTERS/Feisal Omar

MOGADISHU: “The president has arrived, the president has arrived,” chant youths in Mogadishu’s Beerta Khaatka market, as armed men in trucks mounted with machine guns escort lorries with horns blaring through the throng.

The joking salutation is not for Somalia’s president, but hails a national institution nonetheless: white sacks brimming with leafy sprouts of khat, the narcotic chewed across the Horn of Africa and Yemen in a tradition dating back centuries.

Grown on plantations in the highlands of Kenya and Ethiopia, tons of khat, or qat, dubbed “the flower of paradise” by its users, are flown daily into Mogadishu airport, to be distributed from there in convoys of lorries to markets across Somalia.

Britain, whose large ethnic Somali community sustained a lucrative demand for the leaves, banned khat from July as an illegal drug. This prohibition jolted the khat market, creating a supply glut in Somalia and pushing down prices, to the delight of the many connoisseurs of its amphetamine-like high.

“Those who exported to London have now made Mogadishu their khat hub,” said Dahir Kassim, an accountant for a wholesale khat trader in Somalia’s rubble-strewn capital where women under umbrella stands sell khat wrapped in banana leaves.

The price of the cheap Laari khat popular in the impoverished country has halved to about $10 per kilogram since Britain outlawed the stimulant.

Before the U.K. ban, 27-year-old mason’s assistant Mohammad Khalif could afford to chew once a week. “Now I chew daily and my problems are over,” Khalif said, blissfully.

The British decision to classify khat an illegal class-C drug was surrounded by heated debate, with critics saying it would create a lucrative clandestine market and even alienate immigrant youths, driving them into crime or Islamist extremism.

Home Secretary Theresa May had argued in backing the ban that it would help prevent Britain from becoming a hub for the trade, which was already banned in the United States and several European countries. She also cited evidence that khat had been linked to “low attainment and family breakdowns.”

While defenders of khat-chewing hail it as a time-honored social tradition comparable to drinking coffee, detractors say it shares part of the blame for the violent and destructive chaos suffered by Somalia for the last 20 years.

Somalia’s cash-strapped government seldom collects health statistics. The spike in use is a concern but officials are too busy battling Islamist Al-Shabab rebels and rebuilding Somalia’s state institutions to dedicate much attention to it, said the Mogadishu mayor’s spokesman Ali Mohammad.

“Somali people are wasting money, time and energy on khat,” he said. “Khat has only advantaged those who grow it.”

A 2006 World Health Organization report on khat said it can increase blood pressure, insomnia, anorexia, constipation, irritability, migraines and also impair sexual potency in men.

Even many of those who make a living from the khat trade recognize that its consumption can be harmful.

“Khat is good for mothers who sell it, but for those who consume it is a disaster. Day and night I pray to God so that my children do not chew khat,” wholesaler Ali said.

Many Somali women point to wrecked marriages and abandoned children as testimony to the dangers of excessive use of khat. “Men who chew are not good,” said Maryan Mohammad, who said she had been married 13 times. “They chew alongside their hungry children.”

 
A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Daily Star on August 27, 2014, on page 10.

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Summary

The joking salutation is not for Somalia's president, but hails a national institution nonetheless: white sacks brimming with leafy sprouts of khat, the narcotic chewed across the Horn of Africa and Yemen in a tradition dating back centuries.

Grown on plantations in the highlands of Kenya and Ethiopia, tons of khat, or qat, dubbed "the flower of paradise" by its users, are flown daily into Mogadishu airport, to be distributed from there in convoys of lorries to markets across Somalia.

Britain, whose large ethnic Somali community sustained a lucrative demand for the leaves, banned khat from July as an illegal drug. This prohibition jolted the khat market, creating a supply glut in Somalia and pushing down prices, to the delight of the many connoisseurs of its amphetamine-like high.


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