Trumpet-player Mazen Kirbaj sits buttressed by a table full of oddities - metal bowls, a comb, a glass of water - like a small-time illusionist. Attached to the mouthpiece of his trumpet is something even more unexpected: the pipe of a narguileh. As Kirbaj begins to produce a low, propulsive hum from this set-up, spectators crouch on the floor, lean against the walls and peer past pillars from restaurant tables.